Watch Words September 2017
Guest User
My name is George Reid and I'm the "New Guy" here at Oliver Smith Jeweler. For those who do not know me I have been in the watch industry for over ten years with the majority of those years as the CPO ( Certified Pre Owned) Manager for Tourneau. I have been a passionate watch collector for as long as I can remember. Oliver was kind enough to give me a new home to ply my trade and to continue my education as a watch enthusiast. But enough introductions, it's time for me to tell you about some of the new pieces here at Oliver Smith Jeweler.
The first watch I would like to introduce to you is the Jaeger LeCoultre Ultra-Thin Date, a personal favorite of mine, and the first watch I had to add to my collection after coming to Oliver Smith. The case on this watch is a mere 7.45mm thin. For comparison the ETA/ Valjoux 7750 movement, one of the most popular chronograph movements by ETA, without any casing is 7.9mm thick. The proportions of the Ultra-Thin Date are balanced with slightly short lugs and curved spring bars, which allow it to fit perfectly under a shirt cuff. Of course, this timepiece affords the watchmaking prowess of the maison a chance to shine; this watch boasts a sapphire caseback which allows the intricacies of the caliber 899 movement to be admired. All this for just $7,500 makes this one of the best value propositions in the industry.
Continuing today's theme of slim watches is the Slim D'Hermes. Typically Hermes is not a brand that floods the mind with images of carefully crafted movements, but I believe this watch could change that. Hermes has been working hard to overhaul their watchmaking division; in 2006 they purchased 25% of the prominent Manufacture Vaucher Fluerier. Since then the brand has gained praise, awards and critical acclaim for their new movements, especially those within the Slim D'Hermes line. This particular model uses a micro-rotor to help cut down on the size of its automatic movement, leaving it only 2.6mm thick. In proper Hermes fashion, every element of this design has been meticulously considered and executed. To help set apart what could otherwise be a very simplistic dial, the numbers and subdial have been split onto separate levels with elegant brushed finishes. My favorite detail of this watch is the custom font used on the dial, designed specifically for this line by famed French graphic designer Philippe Apeloig! This unique font paired with the smooth lines of the case paired give this watch a look that is at once both retro and modern. The Hermes Slim D'Hermes retails for $7,650.
Now, on to the next big (slim) thing from Panerai: the Luminor Due! The 45mm case of the PAM00674 comes in at a positively svelte (for Panerai) 10.7mm thick. The Luminor Due ushers in a new age for the brand, and is easily 40% slimmer than any other piece Panerai has done. But lest you think the movement had to be sacrificed to slim down the profile, this watch features a fully in-house, automatic, p.4000 movement with a 3 day power reserve. The 674 retains all the presence and masculine lines of its predecessors, yet slips under a cuff like no Panerai before it. Finishing off this amazing watch is a dial that has to be seen to be truly appreciated. The fine grain sunburst finish makes the color shift between shades of light gray, anthracite and black, depending on how the light hits the dial. All this and it's a traditional sandwich dial to boot! This new, modern Panerai retails at $10,500.
Thank you all for taking the time to read Watch Words. All of the watches discussed are available here at Oliver Smith Jeweler. Please stop in, say hello, and talk some watches!